You gotta start somewhere, so the saying goes. Even Kelly Slater, the reigning GOAT of professional surfing, didn’t come hurtling out of the womb and straight onto the podium. And unfortunately, ...
In my mid-20s, I moved to Ocean Beach, Southern California, specifically to learn how to surf. I spent the first six months of my tenure unemployed, so I was in the water every day, launching myself ...
There is something magical about that very first time you successfully get to your feet and ride a moving surfboard on an ocean wave - even if that “wave” is more of a ripple, less than two feet high.