Early in my line-cooking career I made pappardelle in a rich meat sauce. I’d finish the dish to order in a hot skillet, gently twirling the noodles in the simmering ragu. The restaurant also served ...

Cook pasta about 1 to 2 minutes less than al dente—barely sticking to the teeth when bitten. Transfer boiled pasta to a skillet with simmering sauce to finish cooking and flavoring pasta. Finish pasta ...